A Sunny Day (at last)

Sunshine! Early morning walk along the Charles River, beautiful day, crossed Harvard Bridge, and walked past Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). Another day at Harvard, this time the busker was playing rock nut incoherently (not sure what it was, but it sounded like rock). Opened a Bank account at Citibank – they were keen for my business – their office was very quiet, not surprising given their recent Treasury rescue last November. There were also very few working there, and a lot of empty offices. University life is very laid back, no real interest in what I might be doing (just as well, as I’m not clear yet myself), and I’m left to figure the mysteries of accessing the enormous Harvard library resources. Later, back in Boston we join the largest gym I have ever seen, overlooking Boston Common. The sun is shining, and there is a real hint of spring – but more rain expected before the weekend. There is a danger that you see America as a cliché, we see it through the prism of Hollywood so it is inevitable, but its true! Mexicans or Latinos work behind the deli counter, and the African-American’s really do work in sports shops, and the fire engine’s really are big, red and have long ladders on top of them! And the sound of distant sirens, are just like in the movies.

30th March 2009

The Chief Inspector on the MBTA gave us step by step instructions on the benefits and value of the Charlie Card, and the need to buy limited number of journey’s as a month’s pass would not apply until 1st April. A good guy and great Boston accent – particularly the way he said “Chaaarrlee” card. After guiding us to the platform he wished us well, and we got the train to Harvard Square, exiting the station to the sound of Leonard Cohen’s “Hallelujah”, played by a busker. I collect my Harvard ID (!!) joining the many other prospective US presidents and Nobel laureates who attend Harvard (at least until I’m found out!) – Then I’m shown my desk and computer and meet the faculty staff at the Hauser Center where I am based, and try to figure how I’m going to do my work….. Outside it is still raining, and later I travel back to Charles / MGH on the “T” (as the subway is known). The busker is still playing Hallelujah, and Anji tells me he was playing it earlier to bunch of Spanish tourists as well. Harvard Square is full of students, academics, aspiring presidents, Nobel Laureates and a surprising number of beggars, perhaps reminding the students to study hard and stay focussed – or else – either that or else they’re failed ex-presidential candidates. We notice the students writing music over coffee and in small groups deep in ardent conversation about something very important.

Day Two - Beacon Hill and Graveyards

Dawn’s grey, cold and raining heavily and persistent. A bit disappointing, but we get out determined to make the most of the day, although the rain was the perfect excuse not to. We trudge the Lonely Planet walking tour of Beacon Hill; a beautiful part of town, lovely large mansions, interesting and varied – with the expensive houses of a town with history, and the poorer contrast of the freed slave areas of the north-side, and the slave escape route of Holmes Alley, at the end of Smiths Court. Lunch of Clam Chowder in the Sevens Ale House, better for it beer and friendly Bar man, who worked weekends here, and spent the week at home in Maine, than for its food it has to be said. He tells us that Maine lobster at $9 per 2ib lobster is cheaper than delivered Domino's Pizza at $11. The rain stops and we walk across Boston Common through town to the Quincy Market, past the Irish famine memorial, raised in 1998 since I was here in 1997. We pass the Granary Grave Yard, a dark and grey 2 acre plot of Boston history going back to 1664, surrounded by skyscraper blocks of offices with leafless trees, mud and puddles, surrounded by iron railings, with a few large memorials to well known Bostonians, and the rest marked by headstones – large for adults, small for children, some with a a skull and wings headlining their life time – heightening your own mortality, in the middle of a lively, living, city. After burgers and beer and wine at the 21st amendment Bar, by the Massachusetts State House with its golden dome, then an early night,

Day Zero

28th March 2009

We landed in fog at Logan Airport, Boston, and took the taxi to Beacon Hill. Suspicious whether the African taxi driver actually knew where it was, but he did, and he went what was probably the direct route. The apartment is on the slightly less expensive, and less well-to-do north side of Beacon Hill, but still full of character. On the fourth and top floor of an older building with creaking stairs and creaking floor boards, nicely decorated, and antique, or nearly antique furniture. After a quick orientation tour of the immediate neighbourhood we have an early US, but late Irish Italian dinner at Antonio’s Cucina Italiano, then an early night. But disrupted sleep due to noisey couple rowing in the flat below, he swearing, and her quietly crying at his load abuse, and frequent and ominous crashes and bangs, followed by even more ominous silence. Finally at 5.30 am – silence; and time for us to get up after a respectable Irish lie-in, but a far too early US start.